Tag Archive for 'Expedition'

Page 2 of 3

What is White

Light reflecting off ice crystals

Light reflecting off ice crystals

Day 16; February 7, 2009; Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica
Average Daily Temperature: 17.78˚ F
Average Daily Wind Speed: 13.42 mph
Feels Like: -2.35˚ F

A colour is never merely a colour, but the colour of a certain object…
-Maurice Merleau-Ponty, Phenomenology of Perception

Here in Antarctica there is snow and ice virtually everywhere, a fact that may at first seem elementary but upon deeper reflection is infinitely complex. The impressive quantity of these natural crystalline elements extends as much vertically as they do horizontally, permeating the air and cloaking the land. The depth of the ice beneath my feet approaches 30 feet, with the thickest ice on the continent measuring nearly three miles. Above the frozen land, even the sky is saturated with floating ice particulate, which are seized by the wind, and whirled about at chaotic speeds. These icy eddies allow for the quality of air that encourages the magnificent atmospheric optics that I see throughout the day.

The luminous expanse of the ice fields tempts my eyes to peer out toward the boundless horizon, as if trying to redefine the periphery of my own vision, enticing me to look beyond the limits of my former perceptions. There, hanging on the diaphanous line between land and sky, I see only endless snow and ice. Even in the direction of the mountains to the south, where the nunataks of the Ahlmann Ridge Range break the flatness of the terrain, it is the insistent presence of snow and ice that prevails.

It would be natural to presume the whiteness of such a landscape, and yet the more time I spend watching the environment each day, the less I believe in white at all. While there are momentary glimpses of something that feels like white, as when the mid-noon sun pushes its strong rays against the landscape so that the sheer brightness of its downward angle eliminates all hope of color, in truth it is luminosity that reigns. White, then, seems to become only a vehicle for the action of light upon the landscape, yet what is persistently baffling is that white can only exist as a consequence of light.

The idea of white is rather like the idea of zero. In a sense they are both elusive, and at the same time they each define entire systems, in science and mathematics, respectively. While they themselves are intangible, they give birth to their own infinities. Both white and zero each contain within them their own intrinsic paradox: white appears to the eye as the absence of all color, and yet it can be scientifically proven that it is comprised of all color, while zero is the sum total of nothingness and yet it can be proven to exist. Interestingly, they have both in various ways referred to the idea of the void. White and zero are lone wolves, isolated, like the continent of Antarctica itself, from the very things to which they are intrinsically connected.

White is not, itself, a color in the visible spectrum of light, but rather the sum total of them all. If you take all the color frequencies in the observable gamut, which range from 380 to 750 nanometers, you would get white light. Sir Isaac Newton, standing on the shoulders of earlier optical scientists, showed us these basic principals in his legendary prism experiment. By placing a prism in the direct path of the sun, he saw that white light divided into the pure spectral colors otherwise known as violet, blue, green, yellow, orange, red.

If white is the summation of all spectral color, then why do we experience white to be the absence of it? While Newton’s discovery furthered science in extraordinary ways, what of this theory of quantitative differentiation tells us of the millions of other colors we experience that have no name? The world as we see it with our senses is not merely comprised of these six colors.

Philosophically, white has always been attributed to the “blank canvas,” new beginnings, and is a beacon for peace and purity. Yet, is anything actually white? When we think we perceive white, we actually can still see bits of other colors, as light reflects and refracts across objects and surfaces. For instance, observe an average white-painted wall throughout the course of a 24-hour period. At first you take for granted that it is white because you expect it to be white. However, when you look more closely, and with time, you will see how slightly bluish the wall is by the window at midday, and slightly yellowish it is by the lamp you turned on after sunset, and how an orange chair is reflecting slightly onto the wall, making a glowing orangey spot of color appear.

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, the great philosopher and color theorist, was less interested in separating the spectrum into its divisible parts, as Newton was, but investigated instead the vague space between the pure colors, where the clear delineation between one color and the next was more mysterious. He looked not to the individual wavelengths but to the merging of short-wave light and long-wave light. He looked to where light interacted with itself. His research began with the notion that color, or light, was in fact a perceptual act that necessarily included a more introspective interpretation.

Looking out toward the horizon, with the subtle hues of colors blending and overlapping before my eyes, I begin to see the wisdom of his thinking. This complex system of light, and our seeing of it, maintains that the world of natural phenomena lies quite beyond the mind.

The observer does not see a pure phenomenon with his eyes, but more with his soul. Information from the eye depends on the disposition of the organ at the moment, on light, air atmospheric conditions, matter, manipulation, and a thousand other circumstances.
Goethe, January 15, 1798 (From Goethe’s Color Theory)

Observing, then, pure phenomenon itself, like the suns rays bouncing off the snow, or refracting through suspended ice crystals that are blowing in the strong Antarctic winds, I don’t perceive just one color, but many simultaneously. These substances—ice and snow—are prisms in their own right, and so display for us a myriad of colors as the result of light passing through them as they mingle together throughout the land and sky. But, then, the question remains, what color are all the individual frozen water crystals themselves? Are they white?

Physiologically, white is the perceptual experience which is elicited by light, and which subsequently activates the three kinds of color sensitive cone cells in our eyes in equal amounts. There is virtually an endless number of combinations of colors in the visible spectrum that will stimulate these cones in such a way—in other words, the illusion of white can be accomplished by an almost infinite number of luminous color circumstances. So then where does white exist? Is it a function only of our mind?

As I watch, minute-by-minute, the way the light interacts with the ice, snow and floating crystalline particulate, I am ever fascinated by the realization that what is purportedly “white” before me, is truly anything but. Explicit indigos, barely pale blues, vague, misty yellows, severe and subdued pinks, impossible violets and lavenders, farouche grays. These, and a million others, are the colors that pervade the sky and land here. Even if they are ever so softly imbuing the surface of the pale ice or snow, the color is present, and changing subtly throughout the day. Virtually everything in this landscape is a refracting surface, waiting to scatter and reflect light. Antarctica literally holds light within it. As coherent sunlight (white light) moves slowly throughout the environment here, it shimmers across and beneath the ice and snow, making everything luminous from the inside, and displaying colors that seem unimaginable.

Looking out again to the landscape as if for some clarity, I watch the deep interplay between light and crystal and find respite in its mysterious nature. Goethe reminds me, “…the highest is to understand that all fact is really theory. The blue of the sky reveals to us the basic law of color. Search nothing beyond the phenomena, they themselves are the theory.”

***

Grunehogna

Titan 1, on the ice field next to Grunehogna

Titan 1, on the ice field next to Grunehogna

Day 15; February 6, 2009; Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica
Average Daily Temperature: 18.14˚ F
Average Daily Wind Speed: 11.63 mph
Feels Like: 0.69˚ F

It was half an hour before lunch when I finally awoke. On my way to the dinning room to find some caffeine, my stomach clearly announcing it was ready for a meal, I ran into the helicopter pilots of Titan 1, Neall Ellis and his son and co-pilot, Kevin Ellis. Wishing me a good afternoon, they told me that we would be flying to Grunehogna in 30 minutes and to gather my things. With my first cup of coffee sloshing over the rim of my mug as I ran around getting all my gear and equipment together, I felt a rush of elation at the prospect of journeying into the field.

We were all a bit frenetic from the quick notice of our departure. Alfons was actually down at our mobile base and Thomas had rushed off on the skimobile to fetch him, but before long everyone arrived at the hanger at the north end of the base. Titan 1′s voice thundered loudly, its two sets of blades slicing the air at top speed in opposing directions, and we were quickly airborne. Flying over the base and around our nunatak, we then turned south and glided out toward the mountain range in the distance—the view which I photograph incessantly each and every day.

The Titan 1 aircraft is a Kamov Ka32, which was built in Russia and designed for extremely heavy lifting. It has two sets of counter-rotating propeller blades, and therefore requires no additional tail propeller, which reduces its body length yet provides a lift capacity of 11,000 pounds. The helicopter is specially equipped to fly in extreme cold conditions, and can carry up to fifteen passengers and a crew of three. Today, we were a total of nine.

The afternoon grew more beautiful with each moment. The air was noticeably warm, almost gentle, as there was no wind blowing at all, but the light was strong and captivating. As we passed by the other massive rock formations along the 15 minute flight to Grunehogna, the details below were spectacular—we were only flying about 500 feet off the ground. Clearly visible were the patterning the ice and snow makes from the winds. Each continuous wave spread out over the drifting snow to fit perfectly into the next. The sun demarcated the altitude of each crest with strong highlights, marking the frozen ground as if a natural drawing, like charcoal on white paper.

The mountains here are striking. Intensely hard rock jutting upward across the ice planes, makes me wonder at the history of this place. How did this all form? Vesleskarvet, the name of the nunatak upon which we are living, is at the north-eastern edge of the Ahlmannryggen (Ahlmann Ridge) of mountains. Ahlmann Ridge, 71°50′S 2°25′W, is a broad, mainly ice-covered ridge, about 70 miles long, and scattered with other nunataks, Grunehogna being one of them. The ridge rises between the Schytt and Jutulstraumen Glaciers and extends from Borg Massif northward to Fimbul Ice Shelf here in beautiful Queen Maud Land. I must speak with the Geologists here at the base to learn more about the age and formation of this area…

Reaching the edge of Grunehogna, one realizes the shear strength of the wind in Antarctica. Catabatic winds, as it is called here, blow out from the large and elevated ice sheets of Antarctica toward the sea. The buildup of high density cold air over the ice sheets combined with high elevation brings enormous gravitational energy, which propels the winds to incredible speed, sometimes surpassing even hurricane force. The catabatic winds carve a deep incurvation at the base of the nunataks as they blow around them. Like a moat, these wind scoops surround these majestic rock castles, leaving a frozen lake at the bottom in hues of the lightest blues and rippled like the surface of water. One has to look closely to see that it isn’t actually a moving body, but solid, because your mind doesn’t expect it to be as such.

The day flowed on. Thomas and 1stborn, along with the help of the rest of the group, dug intensely into the snow to find the buried snow accumulation flag, our day’s mission, which ITASC had placed there on their 2006 expedition. They had the exact GPS coordinates, but even with a twelve foot diameter hole which was in places 4 to 5 feet deep, we still could not find the flag. Suppositions were put forth: could it have blown free and away, could it have been so buried by a storm that it was much deeper than we could dig, could it have moved from its original location by the natural flow of the ice toward the sea? We may never know. In the end, we made a large hole, a full day’s effort, for seemingly nothing. Spirits were down, even as we made strong coffee over the camp stove to keep the energy going and have something warm to keep the cold at bay. When we received a radio call from the base saying that we could stay an extra hour in the field, we continued the search, but to no avail.

The flag might have eluded us, but the day did not. In spite of the disappointment of not fulfilling the journey’s purpose, a vastly different aspiration was perfected: to simply be here, and experience Antarctica in all of its wonder and magnificence. To have spent the day feeling in my bones the immense thickness of the ice below my feet, and the ancientness of the rock mountain towering above me—I was steeped in the essence of this place.

***

Take Over

Boot toss during the Take Over games at SANAE

Boot toss during the Take Over games at SANAE


Day 14; February 5, 2009; Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica
Average Daily Temperature: 19.4˚ F
Average Daily Wind Speed: 22.15 mph
Feels Like: -13.82˚ F

My alarm sounded, startling me out of a deep sleep. The foreign noise alerted me to the fact that it was 6:30am and time to get ready for our journey to Grunahogna—the gorgeous rock mountain 40 kilometers away that I see from my studio window here. I was elated to be going on a new adventure. Travel within Antarctica is never without a particular mission, due to the incredible expense. Given the $9000 per hour flight cost while airborne, our scheduled helicopter flight to Grunahogna this morning was not a scenic tour. Though we would indeed be graced by exquisite close-up views of the area’s many nunataks during our quick, low-flying flight, the day’s goal was to retrieve a snow accumulation flag that ITASC had placed there 2 years ago.

Groggy and puffy-eyed, I quickly dressed into my warm gear, made sure all my camera equipment was in my backpack, and grabbed my sleeping bag, which we were required to bring on any flight away from the base in the event of an emergency landing or a surprise storm. Walking into the dinning room, where I was to meet Thomas, Alfons and 1stborn for our flight, I looked out the window and stopped in my tracks. White-out conditions, fierce wind, and snow flurries. We wouldn’t be going anywhere.

Although the mild storm didn’t last beyond lunch, and the afternoon was gorgeous, our flight was canceled for that day. Normally, we would have just flown in the afternoon the minute the conditions turned favorable. But today was “Take Over,” and so starting at Noon, the base was on a sort of holiday.

Take Over is the name used to mark the time in the year when the team who has just spent the entire winter at the base (a 14 month duration, from December to the following February) hands the base over to the team who has just arrived and will now stay here through the next winter. Those who have “wintered over” as it is called, and those who are about to “winter over” go through a very formal process where the one team, SANAE 47 (the name refers to the fact that they are the 47th expedition team from South Africa) literally signs the duties and the responsibility for the base over to the next expedition team, SANAE 48, who arrived here on the boat in early January. But before the formalities of the paperwork are performed, there are games to be played and championships to be won.

The tournaments had actually begun last night, with the first rounds of darts, pool and ping pong (or table tennis) causing a happy cacophony to arise from the bar and game room most of the night. Somehow, I had been signed up for pool, and after dinner, I heard my name being called for next game up. I enjoy pool tremendously, however I am not endowed with a fantastic ability for geometry, having always been much more proficient at algebra. Unfortunately, imaginary numbers do little to assuage the need to deliver a pool ball into a corner pocket, and alas I found myself feeling exactly as I did before a geometry exam: intensely apprehensive. Despite the horrendous game I played, I actually won, owing to the fact that my opponent managed to sink the white ball whilst he was sinking the black ball. Et voila! I believe I am the only winner of a pool game in the history of pool that managed to win with every one of my pool balls still on the table! Mortified, and yet winner, I would have to endure yet another game.

Games resumed after lunch today, and with the stormy weather having finally calmed, the out-of-doors boot toss and tug-of-war commenced, lasting until early evening. Cocktails were then at 7pm, with the formal six-course meal at 8pm. Throughout the wonderful meal, which included some traditional South African foods, the team leaders from SANAE 47 got up to share their reflections, stories and gratitude for the year’s trials and successful research, and acknowledged the hardships they had endured over their isolated winter stay.

There are only 10 or so members on a team each expedition year, so it is a very small group of people who brave the whole 14 months. During the harsh winter, they are completely cut off from the rest of the world because there are no flights in or out of Antarctica. It is not until December, the start of the research season, that the boat brings the rest of the people who make up the now 76 researchers, scientists, engineers and administration staff that populate the base during the three months of summer. But harsh weather is just around the corner again, and so as early as next week, everyone who is not wintering over, including me, will begin to pack up and return to the ship and depart to Cape Town.

During the talks, Ross Hofmeyr, who is the Team Leader for SANAE 47, spoke affectingly about his team and their intense and fulfilling year. His words were so moving, that I found tears welling in my eyes when he gave us long pause by finishing with this quote from Sir Ernest Shackleton:

We have pierced the veneer of outside things.
We have suffered and triumphed,
grovelled down yet grasped at glory,
grown bigger in the bigness of the whole.
We have seen God in all his splendor,
heard the text that Nature renders,
We have reached the naked soul of man.

Before dessert was the official signing over of the base, and then everyone rushed back to the game room for what would become a late night of dancing and the final rounds of the championships. As you might imagine, I was defeated in my second game in the pool tournament. Yet after the championship was finally claimed, and the pool table once again open for additional folly, I was actually challenged to another game! By some mathematical anomaly, I thereafter held the table for four straight hours! It was as if suddenly, points, lines and surfaces emerged from the unknown and I was able to actually sink my pool balls, even accomplishing some fancier moves. Finally releasing the table to a true master, I realized it was way too late. Yet the festivities had everyone in the party spirit, and as I walked down the corridor back to my room, I could still hear laughter and the curious din of Afrikaans and Zulu echoing throughout the hallways.

***

Coordinates

SANAE IV Research Base on Google Earth

Satellite mage of SANAE IV Research Base on Google Earth

Day 13; February 4, 2009; Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica
Average Daily Temperature: 13.28˚ F
Average Daily Wind Speed: 20.80 mph
Feels Like: -17.92˚ F

My exact GPS coordinates here in Antarctica are 71 ° 40.433’ S 002 ° 48.700’ W… want to see where I am? Google Earth has satellite images of the SANAE IV Research Base including the nunataks and glaciers surrounding the area. Ross Hofmeyr added names and points of interest to the images, so you can see where everything is.

Click HERE to download the KMZ file you’ll need to get here.

Once you’ve downloaded this file, you’ll need to upload it or add it to your Google Earth places, and then you can start zooming around! If you zoom out far enough, you can even see the edge of the continent… enjoy!

***

On the Horizon

Light on the eastern horizon

Light on the eastern horizon

Day 12; February 3, 2009; Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica
Average Daily Temperature: 15.08˚ F
Average Daily Wind Speed: 12.30 mph
Feels Like: -3.37˚ F

Last night was the opening of ICEPAC, the Bienal del Fin del Mundo’s Antarctic venue. The whole base gathered down at the remote mobile base for music, video art, and dancing to celebrate this cultural center in Antarctica as an event and a place. We had spent the whole day preparing for the opening, and organizing various components of the exhibition. After dinner we all gathered in the media room for Alfons Hug’s lecture about the exhibition here in Antarctica as well as its other venues in Ushuaia, Argentina and Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo, Brazil.

Once the discussion that followed the talk had concluded, everyone jumped on skimobiles and made their way down to the black geodesic tent. I spent too much time gathering my equipment, missing the ride down, and so set about walking there on my own. The evening was soft, the wind gentle, and light was bending across the land, alluding to colors that would intensify as the night progressed. Standing there feeling the air, I could see the party commencing below, and began my short trek.

There is nothing like being alone in Antarctica. Spending even short durations of solitude out on the ice is to be confronted by the unyielding expanse of nature. One peers into the horizon as if it were a tether, but it is at once a doorway and a mirror.

I have spent most of my days here in Antarctica gazing out toward the horizon, and find it leads me to reflect deeply on the Earth’s spherical shape. As I look into the endlessness in front of me, whichever direction I look, I can see the slight curvature of our planet, and it conjures up the image of the little blue globe I have back at home. Often I would hold the globe in my hands and look at Antarctica, always having to turn the object up-side-down in order to find the hidden continent. When I think of this now, here, it occurs to me, in a very particular way, where I am on the planet. It is a bit hard to explain, but it feels like a rubber band going back and forth between imagining Antarctica before my arrival, and knowing Antarctica now that I’m actually here. It is that distinct resonance of “place” in one’s soul, and as I begin to fully acknowledge my remoteness, I am ever struck by the sensation of it.

Perception of “place” changes in every moment throughout the day here, as light dissolves the edge where the earth meets the sky into a seemingly singular locus. I can look south out my window toward the horizon three hundred times a day, and each time I am led to a new place. Experiential adaptability and an active presence is key to delineating terra firma from the intense luminosity that sometimes removes the ability to perceive three dimensional space. It is impossible to abandon the constant interaction that occurs with the land here. Antarctica calls you to be its witness, requires you to accept its moods and then shows you the world anew, if you allow it. To abjure nature’s profound force here is to somehow ignore truth, which would leave you quite defeated.

I arrived at ICEPAC in about 20 minutes, having taken my time to meander and watch the now lowering sun. Joining again my colleagues and friends, I felt a real kinship with these and all the people before us who have lived on this continent. Even in my short time here, I already feel this place has pierced my core, as I know it has done to all who have spent time here.

***

Bienal del Fin del Mundo

Left: Construction of ICEPAC Site-Specific Installation, Vesleskaervet, Antarctica, 2009. PHOTO: ITASC/Ntsikelelo Ntshengila. Right: South African Base SANAE IV, Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica, PHOTO: ITASC/Adam Hyde

Day 11; February 2, 2009; Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica
Average Daily Temperature: 17.24˚ F
Average Daily Wind Speed: 16.78 mph
Feels Like: -7.93˚ F

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE:

Announcing the opening of the Antarctic portion of Intemperie: the 2nd Bienal del Fin del Mundo, a collection of site specific installations produced during the project ITASC at SANAE IV (71 ° 40.433’ S 002 ° 48.700’ W) and ICEPAC (71 ° 40.433’ S 002 ° 48.700’ W) in Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica. The exhibition focuses on weather, climate and Antarctica. The main venue of the Bienal del Fin del Mundo is in Ushuaia (Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, April 23 – May 25, 2009) with satellite exhibitions taking place at Centro Cultural Oi Futuro, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil (Jan 19 – March 1, 2009), SANAE IV, Antarctica (Feb 3 – 17 2009), and OCA, Sao Paulo, Brazil (March 7 – April 12 2009).

Exhibition Dates: February 3 – 17, 2009, 12am-12pm
Opening Reception: February 2, 8pm

Artists:
ARQZE
Erika Blumenfeld
Adam Hyde
Rebecca Mattos
Thomas Mulcaire
Siphiwe Ngwenya
Ntsikelelo Ntshingila
Amanda Rodrigues Alves
Manuel Sanfuentes
Pol Taylor

Curator:
Alfons Hug

Realized with the support of the South African National Antarctic Program, Goethe Institut and Oi Futuro, Rio de Janeiro.

Intemperie
by Alfons Hug

In Antiquity, philosophers believed that for reasons of symmetry the southern hemisphere must contain a counterweight to the landmass of the northern hemisphere. Mercator’s 16th century maps also claim the presence of a “large southern continent” (Terra Australis Incognita), which was regarded as a tropical paradise.

The intensive search for the real Antarctic during the 19th century was guided by the conviction that contact with the end of the world would unearth new insights for the human spirit. Not until 1820 did the Baltic German captain Fabian Bellingshausen (who was in Russian service) and the American seal hunter Nathaniel Palmer both finally discover the white continent at the same time.

Even so, highly respected contemporary personalities, including Edgar Allan Poe, still subscribed to the superstitious belief that there was an opening in the globe at the South Pole through which travelers could reach a civilized world, which they suspected within the Earth’s crust.

Today, 4000 scientists committed to peaceful research from all over the world (1000 in the winter) work in 80 stations scattered all over the Antarctic, which is about as big as Brazil and Europe together (almost 14 million square kilometers). The sparse tourism is still ecologically defensible – so far.

The Antarctic Treaty (1959), which was signed at the peak of the Cold War and froze all territorial demands until further notice, was an exemplary agreement which still maintains a key status in global environmental and peace policy today.

The Antarctic is therefore the only continent with no military weapons, no economic exploitation, and no land ownership; not even the plentiful mineral resources may be exploited: Utopian conditions indeed. While the rest of the world wears itself out in endless conflicts, a destructive exploitation of resources, and ownership claims of all kinds, the Antarctic, that classic no-man’s-land, has a higher calling: it belongs to no one and therefore to everyone.

Its natural cycles are certainly very closely interwoven with our own, and its fragile ecosystem reacts sensitively even to disturbances caused in other areas of the world. It functions as the Earth’s “measuring instrument.”

Although affected by the environmental sins committed by the rest of the world, the southern continent is largely still in a state of sublime innocence. It is the land before the Fall, perhaps the final great promise to mankind since the Tropics lost some of their paradisal beauty. The icy ground of this mythical region resembles an enormous archive in which the climatic history of the Earth is stored. The Antarctic is frozen time.

This zero point of culture is well suited for intellectual and artistic reflections on the world: emptiness, silence and seclusion, but also purity, clarity, peace and spirituality are some the existential categories that will be discussed in the transcendental Antarctic. The artists begin where the scientists and their measurements cannot reach, thus allowing a new and fresh perspective on this neuralgic point of the Earth.

The artists will also have to come to terms with the color white, which was regarded by the impressionists as a non-color, yet in the eyes of Kandinsky was an “insurmountable, indestructible, almost infinite cold wall,” a silence that can suddenly be understood. “It is a void that is juvenile or, more precisely, a void that is before the beginning, before birth” (Kandinsky, Concerning the Spiritual in Art).

And just as the “white cube” of the modern art galleries, in its complete neutrality, mercilessly reveals the weaknesses of a work of art, so the naked, white expanse of the Antarctic exposes the inadequacies of human activity.

Websites:
ITASC http://www.icepac.org
IPY http://www.ipy.org
The Polar Project http://www.thepolarproject.com

Photo Credits for Images at Top of Post: Left: Construction of ICEPAC Site-Specific Installation, Vesleskaervet, Antarctica, 2009. PHOTO: ITASC/Ntsikelelo Ntshengila. Right: South African Base SANAE IV, Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica, PHOTO: ITASC/Adam Hyde

***

Atmospheric Phenomena

Sun pillar, after a snow storm, while the sun was below the southern horizon

Sun pillar, after a snow storm, while the sun was below the southern horizon

Day 10; February 1, 2009; Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica
Average Daily Temperature: 15.26˚ F
Average Daily Wind Speed: 23.04 mph
Feels Like: -19.30˚ F

Today there were snow and wind storms all day, requiring that we stay inside. I spent most of the day writing, studying up on some of the features of my equipment, and watching the blizzard intermittently hide the mountains to the south.

I have been staying up late each night in order to watch the sun do its now nightly dip below the horizon. Tonight’s sunset was quite a treat, and I experienced my first sun pillar.

A sun pillar is a beautiful atmospheric phenomena that displays a strong gleam of sunlight that can either be cast directly upward or downward, perpendicularly to the horizon. They are generally formed when the sun’s rays are reflected and scattered by millions of tiny, airborne ice crystals. These crystals are plate-like in shape, often associated with thin high-level clouds, and therefore have a large surface area upon which the sun’s light can reflect.

Sun pillars are most often a sunrise or sunset phenomena, and since during this time of year where I am in Antarctica the sun sets at about midnight and then rises again by 2am, the sun pillar I experienced this evening lasted well over an hour.

With the base quiet and most people asleep, I was able to sit up in the window over my desk and observe this wondrous event, for its duration, in solitude.

***

Crystal Palace

The ice walls and floor of Crystal Palace

The ice walls and floor of Crystal Palace

Day 9; January 31, 2009; Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica
Average Daily Temperature: 14.36˚ F
Average Daily Wind Speed: 20.36 mph
Feels Like: -16.18˚ F

The day came on with force, due to my finally managing a good night’s rest, and while I was seeking my morning coffee, I made arrangement’s with Richard Duncan, the SANAE team 47 overwintering mechanic, to teach me how to ride a skimobile. We scheduled the lesson for 3pm, which gave me some time to write and email before lunch.

Richard was a fantastic instructor, and in no time I was whizzing around in front of the station, practicing turns and getting used to the hard steering. Its actually quite fun (for those of you who know me and my love for vehicular speed, you will not be surprised) and it was a big joy to know that I now have a bit of autonomy. There are strict rules about where and in what manner one can leave the base, but, weather permitting, ITASC crew members are allowed to go back and forth to ICEPAC, and since we have our own skimobile, I ran up to grab Alfons and take my first drive down to ICEPAC and meet up with Thomas and Firstborn.

When we arrived back at SANAE, Ross asked if we wanted to join him on an expedition to the “wind scoop.” I had been told to never refuse the opportunity to go to the wind scoop if it arose, and so I accepted, my hopes full of expectation from all that I had heard about this place.

Our journey was not without a mission. Apparently a few years ago, while workers atop our nunatak were installing some electrical equipment, one of the blue plastic pipes that they use to insulate the wiring blew off the mountain, and crashed onto the rocks below, shattering the frozen plastic into thousands of pieces and scattering them into the environment. Other expeditions over the years had collected pieces from this unfortunate event, and we were going there to contribute to these efforts.

Joining Ross, Thomas, Alfons and me, was Lorena Collares, an Oceanographer from the Fundicao Universidad de Rio Grande in Brazil, and my roommate here, Carol Jacobs, who is the SANAE Environmental Officer. We took three skidoos, and rode off down the sloping ice fields, and around to the bottom, easterly side of the nunatak. The journey only took about 15 to 20 minutes, but it felt like we had traveled through time to another world.

Scale takes on a different feel in Antarctica, because the subtlety of the hues, and the gentle angle of the snowy landscape distorts distance and height in ways that are surprising. My sense of visual certainty has had to completely readjust, and I find myself looking at the world as if for the first time, like a newborn who’s eyes are trying to make sense of light traveling through space. Looking out at the sun’s setting rays across the misty snowscape, allowing for the mysterious way nature is here, I felt a deep calm wash over me. True beauty has a way of taking precedence over all other senses, and while the evening’s cold wind continued to pursue any possible opening in my gear, I found that even the coldness was perfect.

Climbing up a mountain in the snow was a bit like jogging in the sand—one step up includes some sliding backward. Steadily, we made our way, traversing my first cravasse (a very baby one, just two feet wide, but you still must have your wits about you), and marveling at the shapes ice makes when carved by the wind. Water is water, whether it is frozen or not. Ice mountains look like huge waves, and the surface close up reminds one of the choppy veneer of a lake on a stormy day.

All around me, 150 foot ice and snow walls stood, making the wondrous enclosure that people here call the Crystal Palace. A palace, indeed! The smooth, luminous structure is awesome, and in awe, I began the hunt for foreign cerulean shards.

My ice ax was quite handy, not only in stabilizing my ascent, but also in digging out the plastic artifacts I was finding. Some had burrowed too deep below the ice’s surface, and were unattainable. But you could still see them clearly, their intense blueness reflecting back up through the ice. There they lie, forever; the disruptive effects of our presence in this land. Some of those plastic shards will never be recovered, and over the millennia will instead make there way deep into the belly of the frozen Antarctic ecosystem. The dichotomy of wanting to be here and fearing our presence’s effects, persists in my mind.

Having collected a pound or two more of the wayward plastic, we began our descent. This turned into quite a lot of fun. The ice floor, where it meets the ice walls, creates a sort of slide, and so we all dropped onto our backsides and glided down the natural flow. Laughing and full with adventure, we rode back to SANAE for a hot tea.

Living on Ice

SANAE Station, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica

SANAE Station, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica

Day 8; January 30, 2009; Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica
Average Daily Temperature: 15.26˚ F
Average Daily Wind Speed: 22.82 mph
Feels Like: -18.97˚ F

My first day at SANAE felt a bit like the first day of school. The splendid, albeit institutional, accommodations coupled with the rules and safety regulations orientation had me oscillating between the pure excitement of being were I was, and the childhood irrational fear that that arose when the first school bus of the year peaked around the bend. But the mood of the base, and of the fantastic people who live and work here, was quite jovial, welcoming, and intimate. With only 80 people on the base, it was hard to feel like an outsider for very long.

The base is run on cooperation and collaboration—it wouldn’t function otherwise. We all have cleaning duties to help distribute the general workload of running such an immense undertaking in the middle of the lonely continent. Upon waking, I made my way down to the dining room for breakfast. Ross Hofmeyr, the Base Commander for the 2008 season, which is just coming to an end, very apologetically said that he was putting me on the morning’s schedule for what’s known as “skivvies,” and my task was to clean the dining room throughout the day’s meals. Having only had 5 hours sleep after the long day of travel, I was a bit downhearted to take on a project. Yet, there is really nothing like cleaning to make you feel like you are a part of a place. Thus, as I set about straightening cereal boxes and learning the particular ways to wash dishes and floors in an environment that requires conservation of water and reduction of waste, I felt myself settling in to my curious new home on the ice.

Water consumption and waste production are very serious matters in Antarctica. The Antarctic Treaty has very strict rules as to how to exist sustainably in this environment with as little contamination as possible. Absolutely everything you bring to the continent must come back out with you. This includes all trash, food scraps, and even human excrement. Grey and black water are processed here in the waste facility in the lower level, and undergo normal treatment before they are stored in large containers that are marked “Return to South Africa”. They will be dragged by tractor to the coast, loaded onto the ship there in late February, and brought back to South Africa for final disposal.

Water here is melted from the snow around the base by a smelting machine that people here call “the smelly.” Everyone must volunteer their time to shovel snow into the hole at the top of the machine, as this can only be done manually. Our sole source of water is through this process, so if winds are high and conditions make it difficult to accomplish this task, then we go on high water alert, and no unnecessary water consumption is allowed. In normal water availability, showers are still limited to every other day, and laundry requires sign up days in advance, and is limited to 4 people twice a week.

The base itself is a three-segment structure, denoted by the letters A, B and C , all of which are connected by indoor links. Sleeping quarters are upstairs in the A and B blocks, and science labs and research offices are on the main floor below. C block is mostly the utility rooms, the generators, and at the far end is the helicopter pad. But there is also a library, a pool hall, a bar, a sauna, a media room, a gym, and, of course, wireless internet throughout the base. Homemade meals (although all are fashioned from frozen or canned foods) are served 3 times a day, but then there is also “pie” at 10:30am (always fresh made!) and “tea” at 4pm. For those who think I’m roughing it, I must confess that as long as I’m up here at the main base, I cannot claim anything of the sort. Our mobile base, however, will not be so well endowed with amenities.

The first order of business after my cleaning stint was setting up our offices. A long 24 foot desk built into the wall would be long enough to accommodate all four of us ITASC crew. As I started pulling out my almost 80 pounds of electronic gear, I was stopped suddenly by the view out my two windows. I have the far corner of the building, and so I see both the easterly and southerly directions.

Realizing that I was never going to get used to the breathtaking landscape, I just sat a while and watched as the wind carried the top layer of unconfined snow up the long incline. Things that happen here seem to be somehow imbued with a sense of infinity. The longer you watch, the deeper into time you go.

ICEPAC, our mobile field base

ICEPAC, our mobile field base

In the afternoon we all four piled onto a skidoo and headed to ICEPAC, our mobile base 1 kilometer away down the gently down-sloping ice field behind SANAE base. Firstborn, with the generous help of many people from the base, had already erected the geodesic structure and the tarps and initial insulation were intact. The design is incredible—the slightly oblong shape, and the manner in which it is secured under the snow and ice below, keeps it completely steady and stable. The black outer layer and even the first layers of insulation keep it substantially warmer than the outside air.

We checked the wind generator and the solar panels, as well as the weather station, and then tried out our fancy ice saws. Amazed at how easily they slice through the packed snow and ice, we cut the first few blocks in only a couple of minutes—we would be able to construct an igloo in no time at all! After picking the igloo site, which would become the outhouse for our mobile base, we laid down the first two slabs and then promptly sat down on the ice to have a beer.

The interesting thing about drinking a beer outdoors in the Antarctic is that the longer it takes you to drink it, the colder it gets. As with anything here, if it is exposed to the open air, it drops in temperature rapidly. At first we had put them in the snow to try to chill them, but even after 30 minutes they were still only just slightly cooler than room temperature—because the snow actually insulates the bottle.

Hurrying back to SANAE to catch the end of dinner, and then back to our office to catch up on emails, I prepared for what would be my first art-making in Antarctica. At this time of year here, the sun descends toward the southern horizon at around midnight and then rises again shortly thereafter. Tonight was the last night that it didn’t actually fall below the horizon, so I wanted to document the light in eight directions: north, south, east, west, northeast, northwest, southeast, southwest. The light would be slightly different in intensity and color depending on what direction I faced, and I wanted to capture the full surround of this phenomena.

To accomplish this piece, I decided to shoot it from the rooftop of the SANAE base, where I would have the best 360-degree view of the horizon. The panorama was remarkable up there, and the clouds and snow mist in the distance created an incredible array of warm sunset colors, mostly in the pink hues, although I did see a bit of subtle lavender and hot orange as well. The snow seems to soak up the hues, and in fact requires that I reconsider something I said in my very first blog, when I was imagining coming to Antarctica. I said that my mind was abound with all the possible permutations of white. Yet now that I’m here experiencing the light as it changes minute by minute, I realize that I’ve, in fact, seen almost no white in Antarctica. Every surface of snow and ice is suffused with the ambient colors of the sun’s rays refract through the air particulate and ice crystals—everything white, holds light.

***

Encountering the Sublime

The Sun shining through blowing ice crystals as our airplane landed at SANAE Station

The Sun shining through blowing ice crystals as our airplane landed at SANAE Station

Day 7; January 29, 2009; Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica
Average Daily Temperature: 15.3˚ F
Average Daily Wind Speed: 22.82 mph
Feels Like: -18.97˚ F

Yesterday morning, I awoke to a wild wind and intense anticipation. After a quick shower, I put on the first layers of gear, looked over the rest of my bags, making sure all was accounted for. My phone rang, and Thomas said the flight was confirmed and he’d be over straight away. Just enough time for a quick coffee, checkout, and then off we went to fetch Alfons and head to the airport.

The flight departed from the Cape Town International Airport, and the television monitors listing departures did in fact say “Antarctica” and indicated we would be departing from Gate B1. Although procedures seemed predictable, we were far from being a normal flight. With hand-written tickets we were ushered by the staff of ALCI (Antarctic Logistics Centre International), a Russian operated organization, straight through passport control, quick security, and then off to our gate.

The Ilyushin 75-TD converted Russian cargo plane was remarkable. A projection screen hung at the front displaying our flight information, normal airline seats were bolted to the floor to create a cabin-like feel, but then all around were the signs that this was not a luxury aircraft, but a rugged work-horse meant for utility.

Exposed pipes and insulation, wires and cables, and the Russian text hand painted on various instruments all combined to make one feel that we were in some sort of a time capsule. In an effort to make the space feel more habitable, huge flags from many of the countries who do heavy research in Antarctica and are members of the Treaty, lined the walls, bringing bright color and and a sense of unity.

The flight to Antarctica, despite some of my fears of turbulence, was in fact smoother than my flight to Cape Town. And the crew and staff of ALCI were masters of making our journey more comfortable. Sandwiches, coffee, snacks, juices, fresh fruit and chocolates were served throughout the flight, the beautiful nature programs by David Attenborough were projected onto the screen. Best of all, we were allowed to go down and up to the two flight decks at the cockpit (the second lower deck had window views below the aircraft, so you could see directly downward).

Arriving 6 hours later at NOVO Base, I stepped off the airplane and put my feet onto the ice of Antarctica. Words do little to express the exhilaration I felt. After four years of hard work and pushing steadily uphill to get the project even this far, sometimes against severe obstacles, my heart soared with a sense of accomplishment and gratitude. This beautiful vast frozen landscape is indeed the one I’ve been dreaming about. I fell immediately in love with Antarctica—in a strange sense, it felt like home.

The rest of the afternoon and evening were spent base-hopping in order to reach our ultimate destination, SANAE Station. From NOVO we were flown in a smaller aircraft to Neumeyer, which took about two hours. The flight was intensely gorgeous, and became even more so the closer we got to the German Base, which is right off the coast. From the plane, I could see huge icebergs floating close to shore, some of them the size of lower Manhattan.

We also passed over the second largest glacier in the southern hemisphere, called Jutulstraumen, which feeds the Fimbul Ice Shelf (120 miles long and 60 miles wide). The landscape changes discernibly when you fly over a glacier, and the world below looks unlike anything I have ever seen in a photo. The vast ice field suddenly seems to push upwards, bulging slightly, and is marked with rhythmic striations, geometric cuts, shimmering patterning, and a sense of enormity (both in surface area and in depth) that matches the Grand Canyon, or even deep space.

The only natural reaction I could manage when I saw this glacier was to cry. Nothing had ever seemed so beautiful, so powerful, so rare. Completely taken over by the emotion of the moment, I could not help but feel again the sense of urgency I’ve had from the first moments of initiating this project all those moons ago. How can I bring this back—this deep connection, this incredible nature, this extraordinary continent? How can we protect this unparalleled place?

At Neumeyer, we had some time to explore the base while they unloaded crates and passengers and refueled the plane. There is a new structure being built at Neumeyer, because the old one, which sits far below the ice’s surface, is sinking farther into the glacier it rests within as the ice moves out toward the sea. Descending into the base, you can literally feel the weight of the ice around you, the solid mass providing insulation and protection from the cold and wind.

Just a short walk from the entrance to the base is an artwork by German artist, Lutz Fritsch. The piece, titled “Bibliothek im Eis” (Library in the Ice) is a wonderful and surprising work. While the library itself is functional, in the sense that it has books, and provides a space to read them, the installation is in fact far more than what you see initially. The piece is a tangible experience of solitude, time and isolation.

As we took to the air again, heading now to our ultimate destination, I could not help reflect on how humans have attempted to normalize our being here, in spite of the starkly inhospitable environs. Looking at all we must do in order to survive in Antarctica, the question lingers: should we be here at all?

Our arrival at SANAE was an initiation into the extreme weather that is possible here. Just as we began to approach the base, a massive wind storm blew in, and I could see the snow blowing quickly at about a foot off the ground, floating over the landscape like river water over rocks. The runway had been cleared that morning, awaiting our flight, but the wind had been coming from a different direction then. The pilot tried to land four times, and had to ascend each time at the last minute for fear that the strong winds blowing at the plane sideways would tip the wings as he attempted to touch the ground.

In the end, the pilot had to land without a runway, making his own in order to accommodate the fast changing winds. We touched ground, slid on the plane’s skis until finally coming to a halt. The warm light from the low sun shown through the whirling snow, and the world outside looked like thick luminosity.

The cold does indeed follow the wind, and descending from the plane, I found myself putting on the remainder of my gear. I could hardly see anything in front of me, except refracting light bouncing off the blowing, airborne ice crystals. With visibility closing in rapidly, and the base still a kilometer’s drive away, efforts were made to quickly load the sleds which were attached to skimobiles, and go. The wind was painfully biting as we raced up to the station to beat what would be white out conditions in mere minutes.

Entering the base, the warmth of the inside immediately won out over the cold, and as I took off the 40 or so pounds of gear I had on, I began to realize that the SANAE station was designed to bring comfort to an otherwise uninhabitable environment. Anchored to the top of a gorgeous rock mountain, with shear cliffs that fall into the snowy landscape 600 feet below, and look out across a pristine landscape of ice fields and mountains, the bulbous and colorful structure feels a bit like a space station. Lacking almost no amenity, it is indeed a welcome respite after a long journey, and the forbidding weather outside.

***