Monthly Archive for February, 2009

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Resonance

The almost full moon rising on the northern horizon

The almost full moon rising on the northern horizon

Day 17; February 8, 2009; Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica
Average Daily Temperature: 13.64˚ F
Average Daily Wind Speed: 18.12 mph
Feels Like: -13.54˚ F

This morning I awoke quite early to find that the cold had seeped into my bones overnight.

Just before midnight last night I had walked down to ICEPAC, intent on sleeping the night in our field camp. The sun was below the horizon, but as I ambled across the snow to our field camp, there was still enough light to guide my way. The night was clear, and the deep evening colors had seeped into the ice—everything was indigo and pink, and the softness of the panorama lulled me into sleepiness.

Thomas and Firstborn were already there when I arrived, and after arranging my bed and getting settled for the evening, we decided to watch a movie projected onto the cloth divider, which provides privacy for the camp’s bathroom, at one end of the structure—powered, of course, by the wind and the sun. Snug inside my sub-zero sleeping bag, snacking on some sweets in our camp provisions, we watched “The Bank Job,” which played in stark comparison to our environs.

After the movie, Thomas and Firstborn already fast asleep, I lay there trying to figure out how to stay warm. Mummy bags, as they are called here, are designed for sub-zero temperatures, and their thick down-filled walls were quite necessary for camping in the Antarctic. There is a small peephole for your face, which, once you are completely zipped inside, allows you to breath. But even this small aperture lets the cold in, so I found myself wrapping my head in my wool hat and putting my scarf over my mouth so that I was breathing through it. In short, I was completely enclosed—and I was still cold. It seemed impossible, but for some reason, I just could not get warm.

My sleep was a bit restless, but upon awaking, my deep chill started to wane. The sun was quite strong already, and ICEPAC’s black exterior was starting to bring the heat from its rays inside. Touching the side of the tent’s red interior fabric walls, I could feel the radiation warming my skin, and the fabric itself was almost hot. So amazing that, even in this frozen terrain, one can still know the warmth from our star.

We lingered for quite a while at our field camp, racing back to the main base just as lunch was finishing. There had been an incredible light across the western planes, which I could see on our way back. The clouds, filtering just some of the sun’s rays, cast bright highlights and dark shadows across the ice. Nature is ever present in one’s consciousness here, and always unrepeated.

In the evening, after dinner, I gave a talk on my work and presented The Polar Project. It was great to have an opportunity to share my work with the scientists and base staff, as most of them did not know why I’m here. There was a wonderful response to the project, and I had lots of enthusiastic questions and people coming up afterward wanting to talk more about it or offer their services to the effort.

I reflected afterward, as I looked out my window at the darkening mountains to the south, about what a profoundly meaningful experience it was for me to speak the mission of the project while here in Antarctica. Sound, like light, travels across the landscape, gets absorbed by and reflected off of the snow and ice. Resonance. To know that my words and intent have, as sound frequency, reverberated into the ice, out beyond the wind and across the planes, I couldn’t help but wonder if Antarctica had heard me.

As the clock showed the day had come to an end, the almost full moon peeked its head up on the northern horizon. The moon has been below the horizon since my arrival, and so watching the luminous orb rise and set through the low clouds was like seeing an old friend. How fortunate we are to have a moon!
***

What is White

Light reflecting off ice crystals

Light reflecting off ice crystals

Day 16; February 7, 2009; Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica
Average Daily Temperature: 17.78˚ F
Average Daily Wind Speed: 13.42 mph
Feels Like: -2.35˚ F

A colour is never merely a colour, but the colour of a certain object…
-Maurice Merleau-Ponty, Phenomenology of Perception

Here in Antarctica there is snow and ice virtually everywhere, a fact that may at first seem elementary but upon deeper reflection is infinitely complex. The impressive quantity of these natural crystalline elements extends as much vertically as they do horizontally, permeating the air and cloaking the land. The depth of the ice beneath my feet approaches 30 feet, with the thickest ice on the continent measuring nearly three miles. Above the frozen land, even the sky is saturated with floating ice particulate, which are seized by the wind, and whirled about at chaotic speeds. These icy eddies allow for the quality of air that encourages the magnificent atmospheric optics that I see throughout the day.

The luminous expanse of the ice fields tempts my eyes to peer out toward the boundless horizon, as if trying to redefine the periphery of my own vision, enticing me to look beyond the limits of my former perceptions. There, hanging on the diaphanous line between land and sky, I see only endless snow and ice. Even in the direction of the mountains to the south, where the nunataks of the Ahlmann Ridge Range break the flatness of the terrain, it is the insistent presence of snow and ice that prevails.

It would be natural to presume the whiteness of such a landscape, and yet the more time I spend watching the environment each day, the less I believe in white at all. While there are momentary glimpses of something that feels like white, as when the mid-noon sun pushes its strong rays against the landscape so that the sheer brightness of its downward angle eliminates all hope of color, in truth it is luminosity that reigns. White, then, seems to become only a vehicle for the action of light upon the landscape, yet what is persistently baffling is that white can only exist as a consequence of light.

The idea of white is rather like the idea of zero. In a sense they are both elusive, and at the same time they each define entire systems, in science and mathematics, respectively. While they themselves are intangible, they give birth to their own infinities. Both white and zero each contain within them their own intrinsic paradox: white appears to the eye as the absence of all color, and yet it can be scientifically proven that it is comprised of all color, while zero is the sum total of nothingness and yet it can be proven to exist. Interestingly, they have both in various ways referred to the idea of the void. White and zero are lone wolves, isolated, like the continent of Antarctica itself, from the very things to which they are intrinsically connected.

White is not, itself, a color in the visible spectrum of light, but rather the sum total of them all. If you take all the color frequencies in the observable gamut, which range from 380 to 750 nanometers, you would get white light. Sir Isaac Newton, standing on the shoulders of earlier optical scientists, showed us these basic principals in his legendary prism experiment. By placing a prism in the direct path of the sun, he saw that white light divided into the pure spectral colors otherwise known as violet, blue, green, yellow, orange, red.

If white is the summation of all spectral color, then why do we experience white to be the absence of it? While Newton’s discovery furthered science in extraordinary ways, what of this theory of quantitative differentiation tells us of the millions of other colors we experience that have no name? The world as we see it with our senses is not merely comprised of these six colors.

Philosophically, white has always been attributed to the “blank canvas,” new beginnings, and is a beacon for peace and purity. Yet, is anything actually white? When we think we perceive white, we actually can still see bits of other colors, as light reflects and refracts across objects and surfaces. For instance, observe an average white-painted wall throughout the course of a 24-hour period. At first you take for granted that it is white because you expect it to be white. However, when you look more closely, and with time, you will see how slightly bluish the wall is by the window at midday, and slightly yellowish it is by the lamp you turned on after sunset, and how an orange chair is reflecting slightly onto the wall, making a glowing orangey spot of color appear.

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, the great philosopher and color theorist, was less interested in separating the spectrum into its divisible parts, as Newton was, but investigated instead the vague space between the pure colors, where the clear delineation between one color and the next was more mysterious. He looked not to the individual wavelengths but to the merging of short-wave light and long-wave light. He looked to where light interacted with itself. His research began with the notion that color, or light, was in fact a perceptual act that necessarily included a more introspective interpretation.

Looking out toward the horizon, with the subtle hues of colors blending and overlapping before my eyes, I begin to see the wisdom of his thinking. This complex system of light, and our seeing of it, maintains that the world of natural phenomena lies quite beyond the mind.

The observer does not see a pure phenomenon with his eyes, but more with his soul. Information from the eye depends on the disposition of the organ at the moment, on light, air atmospheric conditions, matter, manipulation, and a thousand other circumstances.
Goethe, January 15, 1798 (From Goethe’s Color Theory)

Observing, then, pure phenomenon itself, like the suns rays bouncing off the snow, or refracting through suspended ice crystals that are blowing in the strong Antarctic winds, I don’t perceive just one color, but many simultaneously. These substances—ice and snow—are prisms in their own right, and so display for us a myriad of colors as the result of light passing through them as they mingle together throughout the land and sky. But, then, the question remains, what color are all the individual frozen water crystals themselves? Are they white?

Physiologically, white is the perceptual experience which is elicited by light, and which subsequently activates the three kinds of color sensitive cone cells in our eyes in equal amounts. There is virtually an endless number of combinations of colors in the visible spectrum that will stimulate these cones in such a way—in other words, the illusion of white can be accomplished by an almost infinite number of luminous color circumstances. So then where does white exist? Is it a function only of our mind?

As I watch, minute-by-minute, the way the light interacts with the ice, snow and floating crystalline particulate, I am ever fascinated by the realization that what is purportedly “white” before me, is truly anything but. Explicit indigos, barely pale blues, vague, misty yellows, severe and subdued pinks, impossible violets and lavenders, farouche grays. These, and a million others, are the colors that pervade the sky and land here. Even if they are ever so softly imbuing the surface of the pale ice or snow, the color is present, and changing subtly throughout the day. Virtually everything in this landscape is a refracting surface, waiting to scatter and reflect light. Antarctica literally holds light within it. As coherent sunlight (white light) moves slowly throughout the environment here, it shimmers across and beneath the ice and snow, making everything luminous from the inside, and displaying colors that seem unimaginable.

Looking out again to the landscape as if for some clarity, I watch the deep interplay between light and crystal and find respite in its mysterious nature. Goethe reminds me, “…the highest is to understand that all fact is really theory. The blue of the sky reveals to us the basic law of color. Search nothing beyond the phenomena, they themselves are the theory.”

***

Grunehogna

Titan 1, on the ice field next to Grunehogna

Titan 1, on the ice field next to Grunehogna

Day 15; February 6, 2009; Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica
Average Daily Temperature: 18.14˚ F
Average Daily Wind Speed: 11.63 mph
Feels Like: 0.69˚ F

It was half an hour before lunch when I finally awoke. On my way to the dinning room to find some caffeine, my stomach clearly announcing it was ready for a meal, I ran into the helicopter pilots of Titan 1, Neall Ellis and his son and co-pilot, Kevin Ellis. Wishing me a good afternoon, they told me that we would be flying to Grunehogna in 30 minutes and to gather my things. With my first cup of coffee sloshing over the rim of my mug as I ran around getting all my gear and equipment together, I felt a rush of elation at the prospect of journeying into the field.

We were all a bit frenetic from the quick notice of our departure. Alfons was actually down at our mobile base and Thomas had rushed off on the skimobile to fetch him, but before long everyone arrived at the hanger at the north end of the base. Titan 1′s voice thundered loudly, its two sets of blades slicing the air at top speed in opposing directions, and we were quickly airborne. Flying over the base and around our nunatak, we then turned south and glided out toward the mountain range in the distance—the view which I photograph incessantly each and every day.

The Titan 1 aircraft is a Kamov Ka32, which was built in Russia and designed for extremely heavy lifting. It has two sets of counter-rotating propeller blades, and therefore requires no additional tail propeller, which reduces its body length yet provides a lift capacity of 11,000 pounds. The helicopter is specially equipped to fly in extreme cold conditions, and can carry up to fifteen passengers and a crew of three. Today, we were a total of nine.

The afternoon grew more beautiful with each moment. The air was noticeably warm, almost gentle, as there was no wind blowing at all, but the light was strong and captivating. As we passed by the other massive rock formations along the 15 minute flight to Grunehogna, the details below were spectacular—we were only flying about 500 feet off the ground. Clearly visible were the patterning the ice and snow makes from the winds. Each continuous wave spread out over the drifting snow to fit perfectly into the next. The sun demarcated the altitude of each crest with strong highlights, marking the frozen ground as if a natural drawing, like charcoal on white paper.

The mountains here are striking. Intensely hard rock jutting upward across the ice planes, makes me wonder at the history of this place. How did this all form? Vesleskarvet, the name of the nunatak upon which we are living, is at the north-eastern edge of the Ahlmannryggen (Ahlmann Ridge) of mountains. Ahlmann Ridge, 71°50′S 2°25′W, is a broad, mainly ice-covered ridge, about 70 miles long, and scattered with other nunataks, Grunehogna being one of them. The ridge rises between the Schytt and Jutulstraumen Glaciers and extends from Borg Massif northward to Fimbul Ice Shelf here in beautiful Queen Maud Land. I must speak with the Geologists here at the base to learn more about the age and formation of this area…

Reaching the edge of Grunehogna, one realizes the shear strength of the wind in Antarctica. Catabatic winds, as it is called here, blow out from the large and elevated ice sheets of Antarctica toward the sea. The buildup of high density cold air over the ice sheets combined with high elevation brings enormous gravitational energy, which propels the winds to incredible speed, sometimes surpassing even hurricane force. The catabatic winds carve a deep incurvation at the base of the nunataks as they blow around them. Like a moat, these wind scoops surround these majestic rock castles, leaving a frozen lake at the bottom in hues of the lightest blues and rippled like the surface of water. One has to look closely to see that it isn’t actually a moving body, but solid, because your mind doesn’t expect it to be as such.

The day flowed on. Thomas and 1stborn, along with the help of the rest of the group, dug intensely into the snow to find the buried snow accumulation flag, our day’s mission, which ITASC had placed there on their 2006 expedition. They had the exact GPS coordinates, but even with a twelve foot diameter hole which was in places 4 to 5 feet deep, we still could not find the flag. Suppositions were put forth: could it have blown free and away, could it have been so buried by a storm that it was much deeper than we could dig, could it have moved from its original location by the natural flow of the ice toward the sea? We may never know. In the end, we made a large hole, a full day’s effort, for seemingly nothing. Spirits were down, even as we made strong coffee over the camp stove to keep the energy going and have something warm to keep the cold at bay. When we received a radio call from the base saying that we could stay an extra hour in the field, we continued the search, but to no avail.

The flag might have eluded us, but the day did not. In spite of the disappointment of not fulfilling the journey’s purpose, a vastly different aspiration was perfected: to simply be here, and experience Antarctica in all of its wonder and magnificence. To have spent the day feeling in my bones the immense thickness of the ice below my feet, and the ancientness of the rock mountain towering above me—I was steeped in the essence of this place.

***

Take Over

Boot toss during the Take Over games at SANAE

Boot toss during the Take Over games at SANAE


Day 14; February 5, 2009; Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica
Average Daily Temperature: 19.4˚ F
Average Daily Wind Speed: 22.15 mph
Feels Like: -13.82˚ F

My alarm sounded, startling me out of a deep sleep. The foreign noise alerted me to the fact that it was 6:30am and time to get ready for our journey to Grunahogna—the gorgeous rock mountain 40 kilometers away that I see from my studio window here. I was elated to be going on a new adventure. Travel within Antarctica is never without a particular mission, due to the incredible expense. Given the $9000 per hour flight cost while airborne, our scheduled helicopter flight to Grunahogna this morning was not a scenic tour. Though we would indeed be graced by exquisite close-up views of the area’s many nunataks during our quick, low-flying flight, the day’s goal was to retrieve a snow accumulation flag that ITASC had placed there 2 years ago.

Groggy and puffy-eyed, I quickly dressed into my warm gear, made sure all my camera equipment was in my backpack, and grabbed my sleeping bag, which we were required to bring on any flight away from the base in the event of an emergency landing or a surprise storm. Walking into the dinning room, where I was to meet Thomas, Alfons and 1stborn for our flight, I looked out the window and stopped in my tracks. White-out conditions, fierce wind, and snow flurries. We wouldn’t be going anywhere.

Although the mild storm didn’t last beyond lunch, and the afternoon was gorgeous, our flight was canceled for that day. Normally, we would have just flown in the afternoon the minute the conditions turned favorable. But today was “Take Over,” and so starting at Noon, the base was on a sort of holiday.

Take Over is the name used to mark the time in the year when the team who has just spent the entire winter at the base (a 14 month duration, from December to the following February) hands the base over to the team who has just arrived and will now stay here through the next winter. Those who have “wintered over” as it is called, and those who are about to “winter over” go through a very formal process where the one team, SANAE 47 (the name refers to the fact that they are the 47th expedition team from South Africa) literally signs the duties and the responsibility for the base over to the next expedition team, SANAE 48, who arrived here on the boat in early January. But before the formalities of the paperwork are performed, there are games to be played and championships to be won.

The tournaments had actually begun last night, with the first rounds of darts, pool and ping pong (or table tennis) causing a happy cacophony to arise from the bar and game room most of the night. Somehow, I had been signed up for pool, and after dinner, I heard my name being called for next game up. I enjoy pool tremendously, however I am not endowed with a fantastic ability for geometry, having always been much more proficient at algebra. Unfortunately, imaginary numbers do little to assuage the need to deliver a pool ball into a corner pocket, and alas I found myself feeling exactly as I did before a geometry exam: intensely apprehensive. Despite the horrendous game I played, I actually won, owing to the fact that my opponent managed to sink the white ball whilst he was sinking the black ball. Et voila! I believe I am the only winner of a pool game in the history of pool that managed to win with every one of my pool balls still on the table! Mortified, and yet winner, I would have to endure yet another game.

Games resumed after lunch today, and with the stormy weather having finally calmed, the out-of-doors boot toss and tug-of-war commenced, lasting until early evening. Cocktails were then at 7pm, with the formal six-course meal at 8pm. Throughout the wonderful meal, which included some traditional South African foods, the team leaders from SANAE 47 got up to share their reflections, stories and gratitude for the year’s trials and successful research, and acknowledged the hardships they had endured over their isolated winter stay.

There are only 10 or so members on a team each expedition year, so it is a very small group of people who brave the whole 14 months. During the harsh winter, they are completely cut off from the rest of the world because there are no flights in or out of Antarctica. It is not until December, the start of the research season, that the boat brings the rest of the people who make up the now 76 researchers, scientists, engineers and administration staff that populate the base during the three months of summer. But harsh weather is just around the corner again, and so as early as next week, everyone who is not wintering over, including me, will begin to pack up and return to the ship and depart to Cape Town.

During the talks, Ross Hofmeyr, who is the Team Leader for SANAE 47, spoke affectingly about his team and their intense and fulfilling year. His words were so moving, that I found tears welling in my eyes when he gave us long pause by finishing with this quote from Sir Ernest Shackleton:

We have pierced the veneer of outside things.
We have suffered and triumphed,
grovelled down yet grasped at glory,
grown bigger in the bigness of the whole.
We have seen God in all his splendor,
heard the text that Nature renders,
We have reached the naked soul of man.

Before dessert was the official signing over of the base, and then everyone rushed back to the game room for what would become a late night of dancing and the final rounds of the championships. As you might imagine, I was defeated in my second game in the pool tournament. Yet after the championship was finally claimed, and the pool table once again open for additional folly, I was actually challenged to another game! By some mathematical anomaly, I thereafter held the table for four straight hours! It was as if suddenly, points, lines and surfaces emerged from the unknown and I was able to actually sink my pool balls, even accomplishing some fancier moves. Finally releasing the table to a true master, I realized it was way too late. Yet the festivities had everyone in the party spirit, and as I walked down the corridor back to my room, I could still hear laughter and the curious din of Afrikaans and Zulu echoing throughout the hallways.

***

Coordinates

SANAE IV Research Base on Google Earth

Satellite mage of SANAE IV Research Base on Google Earth

Day 13; February 4, 2009; Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica
Average Daily Temperature: 13.28˚ F
Average Daily Wind Speed: 20.80 mph
Feels Like: -17.92˚ F

My exact GPS coordinates here in Antarctica are 71 ° 40.433’ S 002 ° 48.700’ W… want to see where I am? Google Earth has satellite images of the SANAE IV Research Base including the nunataks and glaciers surrounding the area. Ross Hofmeyr added names and points of interest to the images, so you can see where everything is.

Click HERE to download the KMZ file you’ll need to get here.

Once you’ve downloaded this file, you’ll need to upload it or add it to your Google Earth places, and then you can start zooming around! If you zoom out far enough, you can even see the edge of the continent… enjoy!

***

NEWS: Interview from Antarctica

My friend James Westwater interviewed me this week about my projects here in Antarctica, and has posted our conversation in a four-part series on his blog. Here are the links:

1. Erika Blumenfeld on The Polar Project

2. Erika Blumenfeld Interview Part II

3. Erika Blumenfeld Interview Part III

4. Erika Blumenfeld Interview Part IV

***

On the Horizon

Light on the eastern horizon

Light on the eastern horizon

Day 12; February 3, 2009; Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica
Average Daily Temperature: 15.08˚ F
Average Daily Wind Speed: 12.30 mph
Feels Like: -3.37˚ F

Last night was the opening of ICEPAC, the Bienal del Fin del Mundo’s Antarctic venue. The whole base gathered down at the remote mobile base for music, video art, and dancing to celebrate this cultural center in Antarctica as an event and a place. We had spent the whole day preparing for the opening, and organizing various components of the exhibition. After dinner we all gathered in the media room for Alfons Hug’s lecture about the exhibition here in Antarctica as well as its other venues in Ushuaia, Argentina and Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo, Brazil.

Once the discussion that followed the talk had concluded, everyone jumped on skimobiles and made their way down to the black geodesic tent. I spent too much time gathering my equipment, missing the ride down, and so set about walking there on my own. The evening was soft, the wind gentle, and light was bending across the land, alluding to colors that would intensify as the night progressed. Standing there feeling the air, I could see the party commencing below, and began my short trek.

There is nothing like being alone in Antarctica. Spending even short durations of solitude out on the ice is to be confronted by the unyielding expanse of nature. One peers into the horizon as if it were a tether, but it is at once a doorway and a mirror.

I have spent most of my days here in Antarctica gazing out toward the horizon, and find it leads me to reflect deeply on the Earth’s spherical shape. As I look into the endlessness in front of me, whichever direction I look, I can see the slight curvature of our planet, and it conjures up the image of the little blue globe I have back at home. Often I would hold the globe in my hands and look at Antarctica, always having to turn the object up-side-down in order to find the hidden continent. When I think of this now, here, it occurs to me, in a very particular way, where I am on the planet. It is a bit hard to explain, but it feels like a rubber band going back and forth between imagining Antarctica before my arrival, and knowing Antarctica now that I’m actually here. It is that distinct resonance of “place” in one’s soul, and as I begin to fully acknowledge my remoteness, I am ever struck by the sensation of it.

Perception of “place” changes in every moment throughout the day here, as light dissolves the edge where the earth meets the sky into a seemingly singular locus. I can look south out my window toward the horizon three hundred times a day, and each time I am led to a new place. Experiential adaptability and an active presence is key to delineating terra firma from the intense luminosity that sometimes removes the ability to perceive three dimensional space. It is impossible to abandon the constant interaction that occurs with the land here. Antarctica calls you to be its witness, requires you to accept its moods and then shows you the world anew, if you allow it. To abjure nature’s profound force here is to somehow ignore truth, which would leave you quite defeated.

I arrived at ICEPAC in about 20 minutes, having taken my time to meander and watch the now lowering sun. Joining again my colleagues and friends, I felt a real kinship with these and all the people before us who have lived on this continent. Even in my short time here, I already feel this place has pierced my core, as I know it has done to all who have spent time here.

***

Bienal del Fin del Mundo

Left: Construction of ICEPAC Site-Specific Installation, Vesleskaervet, Antarctica, 2009. PHOTO: ITASC/Ntsikelelo Ntshengila. Right: South African Base SANAE IV, Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica, PHOTO: ITASC/Adam Hyde

Day 11; February 2, 2009; Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica
Average Daily Temperature: 17.24˚ F
Average Daily Wind Speed: 16.78 mph
Feels Like: -7.93˚ F

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE:

Announcing the opening of the Antarctic portion of Intemperie: the 2nd Bienal del Fin del Mundo, a collection of site specific installations produced during the project ITASC at SANAE IV (71 ° 40.433’ S 002 ° 48.700’ W) and ICEPAC (71 ° 40.433’ S 002 ° 48.700’ W) in Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica. The exhibition focuses on weather, climate and Antarctica. The main venue of the Bienal del Fin del Mundo is in Ushuaia (Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, April 23 – May 25, 2009) with satellite exhibitions taking place at Centro Cultural Oi Futuro, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil (Jan 19 – March 1, 2009), SANAE IV, Antarctica (Feb 3 – 17 2009), and OCA, Sao Paulo, Brazil (March 7 – April 12 2009).

Exhibition Dates: February 3 – 17, 2009, 12am-12pm
Opening Reception: February 2, 8pm

Artists:
ARQZE
Erika Blumenfeld
Adam Hyde
Rebecca Mattos
Thomas Mulcaire
Siphiwe Ngwenya
Ntsikelelo Ntshingila
Amanda Rodrigues Alves
Manuel Sanfuentes
Pol Taylor

Curator:
Alfons Hug

Realized with the support of the South African National Antarctic Program, Goethe Institut and Oi Futuro, Rio de Janeiro.

Intemperie
by Alfons Hug

In Antiquity, philosophers believed that for reasons of symmetry the southern hemisphere must contain a counterweight to the landmass of the northern hemisphere. Mercator’s 16th century maps also claim the presence of a “large southern continent” (Terra Australis Incognita), which was regarded as a tropical paradise.

The intensive search for the real Antarctic during the 19th century was guided by the conviction that contact with the end of the world would unearth new insights for the human spirit. Not until 1820 did the Baltic German captain Fabian Bellingshausen (who was in Russian service) and the American seal hunter Nathaniel Palmer both finally discover the white continent at the same time.

Even so, highly respected contemporary personalities, including Edgar Allan Poe, still subscribed to the superstitious belief that there was an opening in the globe at the South Pole through which travelers could reach a civilized world, which they suspected within the Earth’s crust.

Today, 4000 scientists committed to peaceful research from all over the world (1000 in the winter) work in 80 stations scattered all over the Antarctic, which is about as big as Brazil and Europe together (almost 14 million square kilometers). The sparse tourism is still ecologically defensible – so far.

The Antarctic Treaty (1959), which was signed at the peak of the Cold War and froze all territorial demands until further notice, was an exemplary agreement which still maintains a key status in global environmental and peace policy today.

The Antarctic is therefore the only continent with no military weapons, no economic exploitation, and no land ownership; not even the plentiful mineral resources may be exploited: Utopian conditions indeed. While the rest of the world wears itself out in endless conflicts, a destructive exploitation of resources, and ownership claims of all kinds, the Antarctic, that classic no-man’s-land, has a higher calling: it belongs to no one and therefore to everyone.

Its natural cycles are certainly very closely interwoven with our own, and its fragile ecosystem reacts sensitively even to disturbances caused in other areas of the world. It functions as the Earth’s “measuring instrument.”

Although affected by the environmental sins committed by the rest of the world, the southern continent is largely still in a state of sublime innocence. It is the land before the Fall, perhaps the final great promise to mankind since the Tropics lost some of their paradisal beauty. The icy ground of this mythical region resembles an enormous archive in which the climatic history of the Earth is stored. The Antarctic is frozen time.

This zero point of culture is well suited for intellectual and artistic reflections on the world: emptiness, silence and seclusion, but also purity, clarity, peace and spirituality are some the existential categories that will be discussed in the transcendental Antarctic. The artists begin where the scientists and their measurements cannot reach, thus allowing a new and fresh perspective on this neuralgic point of the Earth.

The artists will also have to come to terms with the color white, which was regarded by the impressionists as a non-color, yet in the eyes of Kandinsky was an “insurmountable, indestructible, almost infinite cold wall,” a silence that can suddenly be understood. “It is a void that is juvenile or, more precisely, a void that is before the beginning, before birth” (Kandinsky, Concerning the Spiritual in Art).

And just as the “white cube” of the modern art galleries, in its complete neutrality, mercilessly reveals the weaknesses of a work of art, so the naked, white expanse of the Antarctic exposes the inadequacies of human activity.

Websites:
ITASC http://www.icepac.org
IPY http://www.ipy.org
The Polar Project http://www.thepolarproject.com

Photo Credits for Images at Top of Post: Left: Construction of ICEPAC Site-Specific Installation, Vesleskaervet, Antarctica, 2009. PHOTO: ITASC/Ntsikelelo Ntshengila. Right: South African Base SANAE IV, Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica, PHOTO: ITASC/Adam Hyde

***

Atmospheric Phenomena

Sun pillar, after a snow storm, while the sun was below the southern horizon

Sun pillar, after a snow storm, while the sun was below the southern horizon

Day 10; February 1, 2009; Vesleskaervet, Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica
Average Daily Temperature: 15.26˚ F
Average Daily Wind Speed: 23.04 mph
Feels Like: -19.30˚ F

Today there were snow and wind storms all day, requiring that we stay inside. I spent most of the day writing, studying up on some of the features of my equipment, and watching the blizzard intermittently hide the mountains to the south.

I have been staying up late each night in order to watch the sun do its now nightly dip below the horizon. Tonight’s sunset was quite a treat, and I experienced my first sun pillar.

A sun pillar is a beautiful atmospheric phenomena that displays a strong gleam of sunlight that can either be cast directly upward or downward, perpendicularly to the horizon. They are generally formed when the sun’s rays are reflected and scattered by millions of tiny, airborne ice crystals. These crystals are plate-like in shape, often associated with thin high-level clouds, and therefore have a large surface area upon which the sun’s light can reflect.

Sun pillars are most often a sunrise or sunset phenomena, and since during this time of year where I am in Antarctica the sun sets at about midnight and then rises again by 2am, the sun pillar I experienced this evening lasted well over an hour.

With the base quiet and most people asleep, I was able to sit up in the window over my desk and observe this wondrous event, for its duration, in solitude.

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